Apparel for the chef with many hats

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by Maggie Shea, Chef Magazine

This is an Online Exclusive article for the Foodservice Business section of the September/October issue of Chef Magazine.

Chefs and foodservice operators wear many hats besides their toques. In addition to preparing meals, they often must entertain guests and manage the back of the house, often spending long days--and nights--on their feet. As a result, they always must look presentable but feel comfortable, whether they’re working behind the stove or greeting customers as they dine. Chef has gathered a list of new products that look sharp and feel great.

Timberland Pro Series
For those extra-long shifts, Timberland Pro Series has redesigned its slip-resistant shoes to combat on-the-job fatigue. Formerly known as the Timberland Pro Black Series, the new Timberland Pro Five Star Series shoes feature molded inverted cones that support, collapse and return in key pressure zones for all-day standing comfort and back and leg support.
Timberland Pro Series Men’s Slip-Resistant Mond Slip-On

Timberland Pro Series Women's Parkset

The Five Star Series also features shock absorption on both wet and dry surfaces and has a unique tread design that allows for maximum surface contact and minimal slipping. The premium full-grain leather exterior creates a sleek, polished look. The Timberland Pro Five Star Series will be available in October for both men and women. For more information, visit www.timberlandpro.com, or call (888) 802-9947.

Culinary Classics
The Lucca Chef Coat from Culinary Classics is a presentation jacket that is comfortable enough to be worn in the kitchen. Chefs and restaurant operators who want to look professional while showcasing their personalities can select two fabrics to create their own unique, customized look. This two-tone jacket also has defined lapels, cuffs, side panels and buttons. Visit www.culinaryclassics.com or call (877) 378-4855 for more information.
Culinary Classics Lucca Chef Coat

Skechers
Work out while you work with Skechers Shape Ups for Work, the slip-resistant men’s work shoe that strengthens muscles, increases blood flow and reduces the impact on joints and lower back that comes from standing for long periods on the job. Shape Ups contain a soft polyurethane wedge insert and dynamic rolling bottom to simulate walking on a soft surface like sand.

Skechers Shape Ups for Work men's

The body compensates by activating muscles in the legs, buttocks, back and stomach, which in turn improves coordination, strength and blood flow. In fact, during a six-week trial of Shape Ups, participants lost an average of 3.25 pounds, reduced overall body fat by 1.125 percent and improved lower back endurance by an average of 37 percent. And be on the lookout for the women’s line of Skechers Shape Ups for Work, due out later this month. For more information, visit www.skechers.com or call (800) 746-3411.

Chefwear Inc.
As fall approaches, Chefwear Inc. is unveiling several new items. Riding on the success of its popular Eco-Friendly line of aprons, Chefwear has added new colors: chile, stone, honey, sweet potato, avocado and plum. The one-size-fits-all aprons, based on Chefwear’s classic Bib Apron style, are 100 percent Certified Organic cotton with an adjustable flapless neck loop and a roomy patch pocket. Chefwear also has added two new pant patterns to its line: Carnivale and Cupcakes. For more information, visit www.chefwear.com or call (800) 568-2433.
Chefwear Eco-Friendly Bib Apron in Avocado

BVT-Chef Revival
BVT-Chef Revival has revealed its newest line of Fresh Cool Crew Jackets with three-quarter-length sleeves in warm, attractive colors including Tomato, Spice, Mint and Steel, as well as White. These stylish poly-cotton jackets with a black collar and cuff project a professional image while remaining comfortable in any work environment. Visit www.chefrevival.com or call (800) 352-2433.
BVT-Chef Revival Fresh Cool Crew Jacket in Spice
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U.S. Foodservice gives Atlanta Community Food Bank a lift

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U.S. Foodservice donated three forklifts to the Atlanta Community Food Bank (ACFB) , which will increase the food bank's efficiency in lifting, transporting and distributing food by 20 percent. ACFB is a member of Feeding America, a national network of more than 200 food banks. ACFB distributes more than 2 million pounds of food and grocery items each month to its more than 800 partner agencies throughout 38 counties in metro Atlanta and northern Georgia.

(l to r) John Leake, president of U.S. Foodservice Atlanta; Bill Bolling, founder and executive director of the Atlanta Community Food Bank; and Marty Ross, vice president operations of U.S. Foodservice Atlanta

In an effort to help end hunger, U.S. Foodservice partnered with Feeding America to help get food to those who need it most. Last year, U.S. Foodservice donated more than $4 million in food and monetary support to Feeding America.
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IH/M&RS announces finalists for 29th annual Gold Key Awards

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The International Hotel/Motel & Restaurant Show (IH/M&RS) has named finalists for the prestigious Gold Key Awards for Excellence in Hospitality Design, an honor bestowed annually to design firms representing the most innovative hospitality properties completed or renovated within the past 18 months. Finalists were selected by a panel of notable industry experts from more than 225 projects in 24 countries. Winners, finalists and "Designer of the Year" Alexandra Champalimaud will be honored at the Gold Key Awards Breakfast Ceremony Nov. 9 at the Mandarin Oriental New York. The awards coincide with the 94th annual IH/M&RS, taking place Nov. 7 to 10 at New York City's Jacob K. Javits Convention Center.

The 2009 Gold Key Awards finalists for the restaurant categories are are:

Restaurants - Casual Dining

Restaurants - Fine-Dining
For more information, visit www.ihmrs.com.
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Sights from the Inaugural Vermont Cheesemakers Festival

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Vermont's finest cheesemakers gathered at Shelburne Farms in Shelburne, Vt., on Aug. 23 for the first-ever Vermont Cheesemakers Festival, a celebration of artisan cheeses, beer, wine and food from Vermont and nationwide.

The sold-out event brought in 1,000 attendees who came for the day-long festival to sample the more than 100 available cheeses; attend cheesemaking seminars and cookbook signings; and try some artisanal beer, wine, chocolate, baked goods, ice cream and meats made by small producers from around the country. Because of the success of this year's event, a spokesperson told Chef Magazine that plans are under way to host the one-day festival again next year. The event was presented by the Vermont Butter & Cheese Co., Vermont Cheese Council and The Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese. Below are some images capturing the event, courtesy of Vermonth Cheesemakers Festival/Adeline Druart.

A selection of Bijou cheese from Vermont Butter & Cheese Co. is displayed at the festival.

Jon Wright of Taylor Farm pauses at his booth for a refreshment.

A view from inside the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival exhibition hall in Coach Barn.

Attendees visit with a calf at the festival.

No one left the festival hungry, with more than 100 cheese samples available throughout the day.
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NRA: Restaurant industry outlook improves in July

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Although sales and traffic levels remained down, the outlook for the restaurant industry improved in July, according to data from the National Restaurant Association's (NRA) Restaurant Performance Index (RPI). Sales remained negative in July, though restaurant operators reported an improvement from June's performance. All told, 26 percent of operators reported a sales gain between July 2008 and July 2009, up from 22 percent in June. In addition, 58 percent of operators reported a decline in sales in July, down slightly from 61 percent who reported negative sales in June.

Restaurant operators reported negative customer traffic levels for the 23rd consecutive month in July. Twenty-three percent of restaurant operators reported an increase in customer traffic between July 2008 and July 2009, up slightly from 19 percent who reported similarly in June. Fifty-nine percent of operators reported a traffic decline in July, compared to 60 percent who reported lower traffic in June.

Despite the remaining contraction in the restaurant industry, operators are more optimistic about the coming months. Thirty-one percent said they expect to have higher sales in six months (compared to the same period in the previous year), up from 24 percent in June. To compare, 33 percent of restaurant operators said they expect their sales volume in six months to be lower than it was during the same period in the previous year. Operators are also more optimistic about the direction of the economy. Thirty-two percent said they expect economic conditions to improve in six months, up from 24 percent who thought so in June. In comparison, 24 percent of operators expect economic conditions to worsen in six months, down from 26 percent who reported similarly in June.

The NRA's RPI is a monthly composite index that tracks the health of and outlook for the U.S. restaurant industry. To download the complete report, click here.
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August 2009 Chef digital edition now available

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The digital edition of the August 2009 issue of Chef Magazine is now online through the Chef Web site. This digital edition features all the same great content as the print edition, plus online exclusives for more dessert recipes and shelving and storage. To access the issue, click the icon below. You can also register on the Chef Web site to receive e-mail notification when each new digital magazine is available for viewing.

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Industry Voices

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"As the economy continues to affect the industry, some in foodservice are feeling it more than others. Chefs are usually the ones who have to carry the weight of the kitchen as it pertains to labor costs and food costs. We all know that when business is slow, to save on labor, the chef has to send cooks home early—and the chef usually has to stay and finish the shift. In culinary school, I learned that a chef is many things and wears many hats, but when you have to be the prep cook, the line cook, the kitchen manager and the purchaser all at the same time, it gets cumbersome. Chefs are strong kitchen warriors, but after a while of juggling all of the duties, it gets old real quick. So what’s a chef to do?"

--Jim Churches, CEC, key account manager, Michael Foods Inc.,
"Industry Voices," August 2009, Chef Magazine

CLICK HERE TO CONTINUE READING!

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The Last Word

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"Sandwiches are one of the most popular foods worldwide, and almost every culture offers its own take on the hand-friendly fare. Each encloses or stacks small amounts of food in outer wrappings in order to make the meal go further, but the choice of covering makes each variation distinct. Some like to insert their burgers between two halves of a bun or their pastrami between two slices of rye. Others prefer to wrap their food in lettuce leaves, cabbage leaves, grape leaves, banana leaves, palm fronds or corn husks. Elsewhere, morsels of food are enclosed in plain pastry, puff pastry, wet noodles or paper--rice paper, parchment paper, even newspaper."

--Irena Chalmers, "Between the Bread,"
"The Last Word," August 2009, Chef Magazine

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Baking from scratch

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by Maggie Shea, Chef Magazine

This article is an online exclusive for the August 2009 issue of Chef Magazine.

The low-carb fad never seemed to catch on for Allison Reid, co-owner of South Portland, Maine-based Scratch Baking Co., or her loyal patrons, who come back again and again for the retail bakery's light and chewy sourdough bagels. Reid recently demonstrated how to prepare her bagels using a wood-fired oven at this year's Kneading Conference in Skowhegan, Maine. She talks to Chef about the staying power of bagels in the American diet, baking trends she picked up at the conference as well as her baker's philosophy.

Chef: Are you seeing any trend away from bagels in the industry in general these days, in favor of maybe lower-carb options like flatbread or wraps for breakfast?
Reid: I'm not into the whole low-carb thing, obviously because I'm a baker. But bagels are trendy right now, and not because they are low-carb. That said, our bagels are lower carb than, say, a traditional bagel, but it's not because we intended them to be. It's because we are making a sourdough bagel that has a little more hydration in it than a traditional bagel that uses high-gluten flour.

Chef: What do you mean by more hydration exactly?
Reid: Our process is different. We use a sourdough starter, [which we named] Lulu, for our bagels. She's a liquid levain starter, meaning that she is 100 percent hydration. Our bagels are 65 percent water, as opposed to the high 50s, which I've seen in some other formulas. Our bagels also differ from other bagels because we don't put any sugar in them. Some are made with malt powder or malt syrup, which tends to lend them a little extra sweetness. Ours are chewy and have a thin, crispy crust, but they're not really dense. They're not getting that chew from the high-gluten flour being really elastic.

Chef: What is the best-selling item at Scratch Baking?
Reid: Definitely the bagels. People do come in for the bread, but mostly because they hear about the bagels first. Also our country-style boule loaf is a big seller. Our sourdough baguettes are a big seller as well. We have a liquid starter named Lulu and a stiff starter named Laverne. We use the starters in most doughs we make here, except for a few sandwich breads that are commercially yeasted breads.

Chef: Do you typically sell whole or partial loaves?
Reid: We sell the 4-pound boule in quarters or halves, which is great for people coming in every day and just getting a little bread for dinner. I love that. I want people to come in every day and buy bread. We do a lot of 1-pound, 6-ounce loaves, which are good for a family for dinner. And then we do loaf breads. We don't preslice. I think that would be crazy, and I want people to slice their own bread. It's that interaction with the bread that I want. We bakers get a little philosophical. I just feel it's really important to hold the bread and slice it rather than take slices out of the plastic bag.

Chef: Tell me a little about the 2009 Kneading Conference in July. Didn't Scratch Baking do a demonstration?
Reid: A co-worker and I did a bagel demonstration, and it was the second year in a row that we were asked to be a part of this cool little event. The whole event is outdoors, and they used these really neat portable wood-fired ovens, which are a big trend right now, built by Maine Wood Co. You could bake about a dozen bagels at a time in there, but they also build production bakery ovens. They had about five stations at the conference, and they would have seminars going on at the same time.

Chef: Were there more consumers than professionals there then?
Reid: Yes, a lot of people who attended were bread enthusiasts in one way or another--growing their own grain or wheat or organic flours. There were a few professionals there, too. I think they'd like to get more professionals, but it's just so hard to get away. We scheduled our demonstration in the afternoon so we could bake in the morning and then leave.

Chef: What is it about baking in a wood-fired oven that people are so attracted to right now?
Reid: I haven't done a lot of wood-fired oven baking, unfortunately. I would love to just for the whole primal aspect of it. We bake a 4-pound boule loaf, and I always think about the historical influence of that big country bread that used to feed a family for a week. I love the idea of it. It's too bad we couldn't bake it in a wood-fired oven because it would be so traditional. When we used it at the conference, it definitely affected the crust of the bagels. A little more water was able to evaporate out of the dough, so the bagels were more crispy and lighter. They had a little of that smoky kind of flavor, but not quite enough to distinguish it. It was just a hotter, drier environment.

Chef: I understand you recently changed the name of the business. How does the change reflect what Scratch Baking is about?
Reid: Two years ago, part of our business split off to do its own thing, so we decided to change the name [from One Fifty Ate Willard Square] to set us apart from our beginnings. The name Scratch Baking lends itself more to who we are and what we do now--we make everything from scratch every day. We have 12 people baking here at one time, which is a lot of hands, but it just takes that many if you're doing everything from scratch. We also try and use as many organic ingredients as possible and keep it local. We're using organic eggs from Maine, and we're using milk from a local dairy, Smiling Hill Farms. It costs more money, but it's important. We use King Arthur Flour out of Norwich, Vt., because it's more consistent and cheaper. I feel very strongly about the company; they're an employee-owned business. And then we use organic rye flour and wheat flour that has been grown and milled in Maine. We try to know where stuff is coming in from. You just have to pick and choose.

Chef: Any advice for restaurants doing bread in-house? Or should they just buy bread wholesale? Or does it just depend?
Reid: It depends on the business. If you have a really dedicated person who loves bread, you can make bread out of anything as far as ovens go. People who are passionate about bread find a way to make it. They will rig up all kinds of situations in their ovens--to make some steam, to do what they need to do--to make a good loaf of bread. And that says a lot about bakers. There's a passion there. This is a craft we're carrying on. It's not who's better than who or who's making the most creative thing. We're all just carrying on the craft and hopefully sharing it with whomever is passionate about bread. I think that's a huge difference between baking and cooking.

Chef: That said, what's your favorite bread to make and to eat?
Reid: I think for consistency and preciseness and getting things perfect, baguette is my favorite to make. There are so many steps involved in getting a really great baguette. To eat, our wheat levain is my baby that we constantly try to perfect that is the metaphor for baking; it never really is perfect so you just keep trying! But on Sunday mornings, I put a little cashew butter or unsalted plain butter on the wheat levain because you really get the flavor of the grain through the creamy butter. There's such a subtlety with cream that it is really hard to find that perfect balance. I've only been baking for seven years and I'm just starting to learn that. Like cooking, it's all about balance.
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