Contributed by chef Mark Eggerding, U.S. Foodservice

Let's face it, fillets of fish can look very similar in weight and species. How confident are you that the order of snapper you just received from your supplier--and paid top dollar for--is the weight promised on the label and is not northern rock sole? It's quite possible you are one of many daily victims of fish fraud. Fish fraud, and, more specifically, short-weighting and species substitution, are illegal practices that costs restaurant owners, operators and distributors millions of dollars each year.

Last month, the Connecticut Department of Consumer Protection (CDCP) joined 18 other states in a multi-state frozen seafood investigation. The group tested 52 different seafood products and found that 26 of the products were mislabeled, meaning the packages contained less actual product in weight than was labeled. The CDCP reported that the product was, on average, 4.5 percent less than indicated on the label. Excess ice made up the difference in weight. And according to the National Fisheries Institute's Better Seafood Board, products made up of 10, 20 and 30 percent ice are often sold to restaurants. Whether operators realize it or not, that type of systemic fish fraud is costing operators and consumers.

But short-weight is not the only form of economic adulteration. Species substitution is another intentional fraudulent practice endemic in the industry. For operators who unknowingly serve a different species of fish than indicated on their menu, fish fraud can also damage the reputation and the success of their businesses and even result in violations and fines by regulatory agencies.

When Applied Food Technologies began to identify fish species through genetic testing in 2006, approximately 40 percent of fish tested for its clients was mislabeled. Just three years later, Applied Food Technologies reported a 70 percent reduction in species substitution for all its clients.

Statistics from Applied Food Technologies demonstrate that routine and random testing significantly reduces the likelihood for fish species substitution. But keep in mind that these stats are only for companies actively testing their fish products. Those not testing their fish may have seen little to no improvement.

To ensure that the seafood you are buying is everything it's supposed to be, operators must take an active approach to vetting suppliers. And with hundreds of species of fin fish and shellfish coming from hundreds of sources around the world, operators must depend on these suppliers to be an intermediary.

When you're dealing with seafood suppliers, it is crucial to ask the right questions. If they are willing to answer your questions, it is a good indication they are reputable. Here are some questions every seafood supplier should be able to answer:
  • Where and how is your seafood sourced?
  • How do you know the product is labeled properly for species and weight?
  • Do you have a Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point (HACCP) plan in practice?
  • What measures do you take to mitigate the risk of fish fraud?
What you can do
If you find a problem with the seafood you're receiving, notify your supplier. If you think you're purchasing mislabeled fish, let your local health department and/or the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) know. You can reach the FDA at (888) SAFEFOOD ([888] 723-3366).

Chef Mark Eggerding is senior vice president of sales and marketing for U.S. Foodservice, one of America's premier foodservice distributors offering more than 43,000 national, private label and signature-brand items and services to more than 250,000 customers nationwide. In the fall of 2005 U.S. Foodservice began working with the Applied Food Technologies lab to develop and implement one of the first fish DNA-testing methods that would help the food distributor better monitor and ensure its seafood supply.
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The Idaho Potato Commission (IPC) announced that it will donate $20,000 to the Feed My Starving Children organization to help assemble and distribute 230,000 Manna Pack-Potato meals to Haitian citizens. MannaPack-Potato is a "first food" designed specifically for malnourished children with diarrhea. It contains potato granules, soy flour, vitamins, minerals and sweet potato flavoring. The Manna Pack-Potato meals will be assembled at a Mobile Pack-Potato event in Boise, Idaho, this August by volunteers who will pack, seal, box and place the 230,000 meals onto pallets and prepare them for loading and shipping.

"The Idaho Potato Commission is extremely proud to support this volunteer-driven, humanitarian organization that provides meals to millions of hungry and malnourished people around the world," said Frank Muir, president and CEO of IPC, in a statement. "Of course in recent days, all of our attention has turned to Haiti. The commission has looked at many different ways to provide aid to the Haitian people. We feel that the Feed My Starving Children donation will allow us to do exactly what we need to do--which is to put nutritional food directly into the hands of those who need it most, especially the children."

For more information, visit www.fmsc.org or www.idahopotato.com.
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Despite bitter winter temperatures, nearly 200 chef-educators flocked to Chicago Feb. 12 to 15 for the 12th Annual Foodservice Educators Network International (FENI) Educators Summit, hosted at the Hotel Allegro and Kendall College. Between the Master Classes, special guest speakers, networking sessions and sponsored events, the FENI Summit provided opportunities for educators to share with their peers and gather new ideas to bring back to their schools. Be sure to check out our Web site at www.fenisummit.com for event images, sponsor and partner links, as well as information on FENI award winners and the Poster Board Presentations.

(l to r) Chef Charlie Trotter receives an honorary medallion from FENI executive director Daniel von Rabenau

Among this year's FENI Summit highlights, on Sunday, Feb. 14, guest speaker and famed chef/restaurateur Charlie Trotter discussed leadership in the kitchen and beyond, as well as the responsibilities and merits of opting for a career in customer service before a roomful of attendees. Below are some notable quotes from his 45-minute speech.
"Leadership is not about leading other people. It's about leading yourself."

"We must be able to articulate these ideas and move these things forward. We are always students."

"Food is not the most important part of the experience. Service is more important than food."

"You'll either serve people or be served for the rest of your life. I'd rather serve people because it's much more interesting to be on the giving end."

During the conference, FENI also recognized several culinary educators for their tireless efforts toward bettering the field of culinary education.

FENI executive director Daniel von Rabenau with Excellence in Culinary Education award winner Chef Christopher Koetke, dean of the School of Culinary Arts at Kendall College, Chicago (photo credit: Eric Futran)

FENI presented its inaugural award for Excellence in Culinary Education to Christopher Koetke, dean of the School of Culinary Arts at Kendall College in Chicago. Following an exhaustive evaluation by judges representing various facets of the foodservice industry, this award, which will become annual beginning this year, honors extraordinary accomplishment and leadership within the foodservice-educator community, as well as overall impact on the field of culinary education. Chef Koetke's influence extends beyond the classroom to serve the foodservice industry as a whole. In addition to unparalleled commitment to helping other educators reach their fullest potential, he is an inspiration to students and has demonstrated true leadership in positioning Kendall College in Chicago as one of the premier culinary-arts programs in the nation. Koetke has taught at The School of Culinary Arts at Kendall College since January 1998. He was named associate dean of the culinary school in 2002 and dean in 2005. Certified by the ACF as an executive chef and culinary educator, Koetke is a board member of the American Culinary Federation (ACF) Foundation Accrediting Commission, the Illinois Restaurant Association Educational Foundation, Slow Food Chicago and the International Foodservice Editorial Council, as well as a founding board member of the Greater Midwestern Foodways Alliance. He is also the host of the Midwest Emmy-nominated cooking show, "Let's Dish," on the Live Well HD television network. Last year with his co-author, he released The Culinary Professional, a comprehensive introductory high-school culinary-arts textbook. In 2009, he was named Cooking Teacher of the Year by the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP). Chef Koetke also presented a speech on the future of culinary education to FENI attendees Feb. 15.

FENI executive director Daniel von Rabenau with Secondary Educator of the Year award winner Chef Ana Plana, culinary arts teacher, Maritime and Science Technology (MAST) Academy, Key Biscayne, Fla. (photo credit: Eric Futran)

The 2010 FENI Secondary Educator of the Year is Ana Plana. Chef Plana is a culinary arts teacher at Maritime and Science Technology (MAST) Academy in Key Biscayne, Fla., and has taught 9th through 12th graders at MAST Academy since 2007. As the school's only food-production and event-planning instructor, she not only teaches during class time, but also heads up a variety of school and student events to offer students real front- and back-of-house experience and the chance to showcase their work. As a former board member of Les Dames d'Escoffier International, Plana uses her experience and contacts from the catering and event planning industry to arrange internship opportunities, guest speakers and financial support for her students and for the school. A sponsor of Women of Tomorrow for the past two years, Plana acts as a mentor to the young women at MAST, ensuring they have strong female role models when they begin their careers. Last year, she received a grant from Slow Food to plant an edible garden at the school, which will be used to teach students to appreciate and understand organic gardening.

FENI executive director Daniel von Rabenau with Postsecondary Educator of the Year Chef Rolando Robledo, assistant professor of culinary arts, Johnson & Wales University, Providence, R.I. (photo credit: Eric Futran)

The 2010 FENI Postsecondary Educator of the Year is Rolando Robledo. Chef Robledo has been assistant professor of culinary arts at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I., for the past six years and uses prior foodservice industry experience at restaurants such as The French Laundry, Rain and Aquavit to inspire and motivate students. While at Johnson & Wales, he earned a master of arts in teaching and received certification as an executive chef from the ACF. In 2007, Robledo won the Faculty Recognition Award for best educator in the college of culinary arts--the only award voted on by Johnson & Wales students. An advocate for sustainability, Robledo has led the Green Collaborative at Johnson & Wales as faculty adviser, helping students incorporate environmentalism and sustainability into their lives and work.

FENI executive director Daniel von Rabenau with FENI medallion honoree Chef Jacquy Pfeiffer, French Pastry School, Chicago (photo credit: Eric Futran)

Also honored at this year's FENI Educators Summit for his continued dedication to FENI over the years was Jacquy Pfeiffer of the French Pastry School. Chef Pfeiffer was presented a medallion that symbolizes his creative and continuous efforts to enhance the quality of culinary education. Pfeiffer founded the French Pastry School with Sébastien Canonne, MOF, to fill the need for a premier international institution of pastry arts education, based on superb instruction, superior equipment and top-quality ingredients. The French Pastry School's team of award-winning instructors has grown to a faculty of eleven, including a Master Baker, Master Cake Artists and Pastry World Champions--several of whom also taught baking and pastry Master Classes at this Year's FENI Summit.

For more information about the FENI Summit, visit www.fenisummit.com. And be sure to mark your calendars: The 13th annual FENI Summit for professional culinary development will be held Feb. 19 to 21, 2011, in Chicago. Visit www.fenisummit.com and read upcoming issues of Chef Educator Today magazine for updates as we continue to develop next year's program.
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The American Personal & Private Chef Association (APPCA) named Carol Borchardt, chef and proprietor of A Thought for Food, greater Memphis, Tenn., the association's 2010 Chef of the Year. APPCA founder and executive director Candy Wallace presented the award to Borchardt during the 2010 APPCA conference, which was hosted by Kendall College's School of Culinary Arts in Chicago.

(l to r) Carol Borchardt receives the APPCA Chef of the Year Award from founder and executive director Candy Wallace

Active in the APPCA for many years, Borchardt helped write the Personal Chef International Code of Ethics and has served on the organization's executive advisory committee. She opened A Thought for Food in 2002 after after receiving business training through the APPCA's education arm, the American Personal Chef Institute. For more information on Borchardt and her business, visit www.athoughtforfood.com.
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Fifteen of 26 competing chefs have qualified to compete in the second of two culinary competitions to determine which six chefs will represent the United States on American Culinary Federation (ACF) Culinary Team USA at the Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg this November and at the 2012 International Culinary Art Exhibition (IKA), also known as the "culinary Olympics," in Erfurt, Germany. The first tryout for ACF Culinary Team USA was held Feb. 19 to 21 at Elgin Community College, Elgin, Ill., featuring the cold-food segment. The top 15 received medals and will advance to the hot-food segment April 11 at Elgin Community College. The qualifying chefs, by medal category, are:

Gold medal winners

Timothy Bucci, CEC, CCE, CHE, associate professor, Joliet Junior College, Joliet, Ill.; ACF Louis Joliet Chapter

Adam Heath, CSC, executive sous chef, River Oaks Country Club, Houston; ACF National Chapter

Joseph Leonardi, CEC, executive chef, Somerset Club, Boston; ACF Rhode Island Chapter

Timothy Prefontaine, CEC, executive chef, The Fort Worth Club, Fort Worth; ACF National Chapter

Silver medal winner

Kevin Storm, CEC, CCA, AAC, executive chef, Bellerive Country Club, St. Louis; Chefs de Cuisine Association of St. Louis Inc.

Bronze medal winner

Kevin Doherty, CEC, CCA, regional executive chef, Delaware North Cos., Boston; ACF Epicurean Club of Boston

George Gonzalez, executive chef, Sodexo, Nashville; ACF Middle Tennessee Chapter

Scott Green, CEC, executive chef, Delaware North Cos., Hamburg, N.Y.; ACF of Greater Buffalo, N.Y.

Brian Joseph Moll, CC, sauté cook, Isleworth Country Club, Windermere, Fla.; ACF Central Florida Chapter

Daryl Shular, CCC, corporate executive chef, Performance Foodservice–Milton's, Oakwood, Ga.; ACF Greater Atlanta Chapter

Rudy Smith, CEC, corporate chef, Unilever Foodsolutions, Lisle, Ill.; ACF National Chapter


Orlando Santos, CEPC, executive pastry chef, The Duquesne Club, Pittsburgh; ACF Pittsburgh Chapter

Eddie Tancredi, sous chef, New Albany Country Club, New Albany, Ohio; ACF Columbus Chapter

For more information on ACF, click here.
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by Maggie Shea, Chef Magazine

As chefs have become the demigods of a culture gone food-crazy, many of them understand the importance of making their voices heard and blog regularly about their passion--be it innovations in the pastry kitchen, sustainable seafood practices, unparalleled plating techniques or making gourmet food accessible and fun for the home cook.

In order to make the writing process easy and fun, write about what you love. Blogging shouldn't become so overwhelming that you find yourself avoiding it altogether. Be sure to find a format that works for you and is easy to maintain. Many chefs have started fine blogs with compelling narrative and beautiful photographs, but they update them monthly or even less often, which simply isn't enough to satiate the rabid foodie reader. Here are some of our favorite chef-bloggers who regularly allow the world a peek into their craft.

The Pickled Tongue. So named by Lockwood executive chef Phillip Foss for his late grandma's favorite sandwich and as a sarcastic nod to "those who would prefer that my tongue stay preserved in a jar (my mouth)," he writes. Here, Foss demystifies the process of house-made caviar, muses about chef blogging or his favorite menu items that just don't seem to sell, shares priceless images from home cooking with his kids and allows us to learn the secrets behind some of his signature dishes (pictured, left, seared sea scallops with cauliflower, quince, olives pine nuts and pine bubbles), all without losing a shred of his personality through the writing process. Each entry is a conversation we're invited to hear.

Charcuterie Sundays. Chef Grant Van Gameren, of Toronto's The Black Hoof, has become known for his cured meats--and rightly so, he makes 40-odd types of charcuterie (pictured, right, caraway and dill salami). But he also frequently blogs about the trials and tribulations of running a restaurant and making charcuterie in-house and at the restaurant's curing facility. He laments over maxed-out credit cards and new employee mistakes, shares exciting discoveries and tidbits he and his staff stumble upon like smoking plantains, how to most evenly distribute the forcemeat when making blood sausage and buying his first black hoof breeder pigs to make for a more sustainable restaurant. Some posts are long how-to's; others are simply a few words accompanying several photographs. But Van Gameren's voice and passion for his craft unmistakably come through in each one.

Michael Laiskonis Notes from the Kitchen/Workbook. Le Bernadin pastry chef Michael Laiskonis' tireless perfectionism and attention to detail are the pillars of his Workbook blog, where he shares his painstaking kitchen handiwork and flawless photography. Each entry is a detailed, sophisticated narrative, revealing the thought and time--and likely rewrites--that go into each post he shares. Whether he is describing the intricacies of curing egg yolks, how to make pâte de fruit or the delicate nature of the paw paw fruit, Laiskonis aims to make the highest echelons of the pastry world accessible and likable to all kinds of readers. (Pictured, left, corn custard with hazelnut praline cream, shot by Laiskonis.)

Ms Glaze's Pommes d'Amour. Amy Glaze Wittman (pictured, right)--cook, actor, teacher and writer--has cooked her way through Paris, New York City and San Francisco blogging along the way. Through her blog, we are invited along to learn about what it's like to cook at Le Bernardin in New York and how it feels to move across the country and plan a restaurant opening in just a few weeks in San Francisco. Still, her most compelling writing comes from stories of her experience apprenticing at the Three Michelin Star Paris restaurant Guy Savoy in 2006. She writes,
"There is a hierarchy in the French kitchen, just like the army, and they don't know how women should fit in--do they treat us like dogs and yell at us point blank the way they do with the young men to toughen us up? Do they flirt with us and just enjoy the fact that we're there to brighten the eleven hour work day? Do they resent us because we're screwing up the system? What do they do? Then there's the reverse question--what should I do? Do I take the sexual humor as a joke and let it roll off? Do I put forth my best butch impression and try and be one of the boys? Do I play off the fact that I am a women so I don't have to do all the icky work? Do I dare show talent and determination?"
eggbeater. Shuna Fish Lydon, pastry chef at 10 Downing Food & Wine in New York City, has been playing with words, thoughts and flavors since 2005 when she started her blog, named for her nearly fanatical collection of eggbeaters. Here, in sometimes disjointed and even harsh, two-word-sentence form, she shares her credo of the kitchen, pastry and life across the various cities in which she has lived and shared her craft. "Once you learn kitchen, you can never shake it. Tattooed into your skin," she writes. (Pictured, left, colored frosting, shot by Lydon.)

Chefs aren't the only ones who've figured out successful techniques for blogging about food. Below are some bloggers who've captured the foodie audience through their storytelling ability, writing style, impeccable photography and easy-to-follow recipes.
  • Bitten Blog--Food writer Mark Bittman's blog on the New York Times Web site
  • Chocolate & Zucchini--Clotilde Dusoulier, a Parisian woman, shares thoughts, recipes and favorite food corners throughout Paris
  • chez pim--Pim Techamuanvivit chronicles her food and travel experiences on her award-winning blog
  • 101 Cookbooks--Cookbook author and photographer Heidi Swanson's recipe journal focused on vegetarian, natural, whole foods
  • In the Kitchen and On the Road with Dorie--Cookbook author and food writer Dorie Greenspan's recipes, travels and love of pastry
  • The Japanese Food Report--Harris Salat's journalistic look into Japanese food culture
  • Michael Ruhlman--The famed cookbook author encourages people to cook for themselves by blogging about cooking, recipes, techniques and food

Got other favorite food blogs or a chef-driven blog of your own? Share it in the comments section.
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Foodservice industry professionals will convene in Portland, Ore., April 21 to 24 for the 32nd Annual Conference of the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP). The conference, titled "The New Culinary Order," will explore and define today's culinary landscape through educational sessions; presentations by speakers such as the former editor-and-chief of Gourmet magazine Ruth Reichl, food writer/author Mark Bittman and Public restaurant chef Brad Farmerie; tours of local craft breweries, wineries, distilleries and bakeries; and evening dining events. For more information on the conference, visit IACP's Web site.
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