Industry Voices

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"So you need to hire a new chef? Or perhaps the manager you hired two months ago (the one you thought could be groomed into a strong manager) turned out to be a train wreck. Whatever happened, you’re now getting ready to place an Internet ad in hopes of attracting the 'perfect replacement,' knowing you’ll soon have to sift through hundreds of mostly unqualified resumes."
--Dave Danhi, president of DD Factor in Redondo Beach, Calif., and former chef,
"Industry Voices," September/October 2009, Chef Magazine

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The Last Word

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"Our cheese consumption is increasing every year—though, of course, you realize that there is cheese and something that is called cheese but bears no resemblance whatsoever to real cheese. Venerable author Clifton Fadiman described processed cheese as a 'triumph of technology over conscience.' He was referring to that yellow material that goes on top of burgers or is the other named ingredient in 'macaroni and cheese.' These products bear no relationship to the cheeses the pilgrims brought over on the Mayflower in 1620. We Americans use the term 'cheese' remarkably loosely. And yet, the real stuff can make a cheese lover out of anyone."
--Irena Chalmers, "Cheese wizzes,"
"The Last Word," September/October 2009, Chef Magazine

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Profitable potatoes for holiday menus (and beyond)

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by Lacey Griebeler, Chef Magazine

Any way you slice them--or cook them, for that matter--potatoes are a great addition to your holiday party spreads. They're easy to use in fresh or prepared forms, they're always a crowd pleaser, and they've got an incredibly low food cost. But the best part? Potatoes are adaptable to most any style of cuisine, as well as any buffet or banquet setting, so you can truly showcase your creativity. Here are a couple ideas that came across Chef Magazine's desk.

Taking potatoes upscale
Potatoes are a simple comfort food for pretty much everyone, but even your fine-dining events can benefit from a thoughtful potato dish. And there's no fear in compromising on the classiness of the event when you can serve up, for instance, rich potatoes cooked in goose fat.

Crisp Goose-Fat Idaho Potatoes
Chef David Waizog, Wynn Resort, Las Vegas
and the Idaho Potato Commission

Yield: 4-6 servings

4 sprigs of thyme, divided
2 sprigs of rosemary, divided
2 bay leaves
3 large Idaho potatoes, 34" dice
1 T. kosher salt
8 c. water
Herb-Infused Goose Fat (recipe follows)
Reserved chopped thyme and rosemary, from Herb-Infused Goose Fat preparation
3/4 t. salt
1/4 t. pepper
Course sea salt, for finishing
5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced, for garnish
1/4 c. parsley, coarsely chopped , for garnish

Method (1) Tie thyme sprigs, rosemary sprigs and bay leaves together with twine. Put potatoes, herbs and salt into a large pot, and add water. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook about 10 minutes; the potatoes will hold their shape, but will be tender and almost cooked through. Drain well and set aside, discarding the herbs. (2) Preheat oven to 400°F. Strain and reserve the Herb-Infused Goose Fat, discarding the garlic and herbs. Place the potatoes in a mixing bowl, add the reserved chopped herb leaves and 1/3 c. Herb-Infused Goose Fat, and stir well. (Some potatoes will break apart; some will hold their shape.) Season with salt and pepper. (3) Tightly pack the potatoes into a 6"-diameter baking dish or skillet. Bake for 30-40 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. Let cool to room temperature, about 45 minutes, and refrigerate until ready to use. (To this point, may be prepared day prior.) (4) When ready to serve, preheat the oven to 375°F. Invert the potato cake onto a baking sheet, unmold, and brush with some Herb-Infused Goose Fat. Bake for 40 minutes, basting frequently with remaining Herb-Infused Goose Fat. Transfer to a serving platter, and sprinkle with coarse sea salt, sliced garlic and chopped parsley.

Herb-Infused Goose Fat
3/4 c. melted goose fat
6 stems thyme (leaves removed, chopped and reserved)
2 stems rosemary (leaves removed, chopped and reserved)
6 cloves garlic, cracked
1 t. kosher salt
1/2 t. black pepper, freshly ground

Method (1) In a small saucepan, add the goose fat, herb stems, garlic, salt and pepper, and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and cook very gently, stirring occasionally. (2) After 15 minutes, or if the garlic is browning too quickly, remove the pan from the heat, and allow the garlic and herbs to steep until needed.


Mashed potato fiesta
As the weather turns cool, add a little heat to the menu with a lively side dish like chipotle mashed potatoes. The recipe below, made with Simplot's Idahoan Real Mashed Potatoes, uses ingredients inspired by south of the border--like chipotle in adobo sauce, lime juice and cilantro--and only comes out to 21 cents per serving, according to Simplot. Idahoan Real Mashed Potatoes are a high-quality, dehydrated mashed potato product with the authentic taste, texture and appearance of scratch-made mashed potatoes, making them versatile for operators. Visit www.simplotfoods.com.

Chipotle Idahoan Real Mashed Potatoes

Yield: 28 4-oz. servings

16 oz. Simplot Simply Sweet Cut Corn
1 package (13 oz.) Simplot Idahoan Real Mashed Potatoes
8 oz. Manchego cheese, shredded
2 oz. butter, melted
2 oz. honey
2 fl. oz. lime juice
2 t. cilantro, chopped
56 fl oz. water
2 t. chipotle in Adobo Sauce, puréed

Method (1) Heat corn in a pot of water, uncovered, and bring up to 165°F. Cook quickly, and do not overcook or allow product to sit in water for an extended time period. Drain. (2) Combine the corn, mashed potatoes, cheese, butter, honey, lime juice and cilantro in a 4" half hotel pan. (3) Bring water to a boil; mix in chipotle to disperse. Add to mashed potato ingredients. (4) Stir well so that all the mashed potatoes are wet. Cover, and let stand 1 minute. Fluff before serving.


In the chips
Fingerling potato varieties are perfect for holiday menus (and year-round) with their bright colors and fun shapes. New potatoes can be prepared in numerous ways, everything from roasting to boiling; check out the Idaho Potato Commission's directory, complete with pictures and cooking tips. Consider highlighting new potato varieties in chip form, always ideal for whetting appetites. The pinkish Ruby Crescent fingerling variety fries up in a particularly festive hue.

New from Lamb Weston, Lamb's Natural Yukon Chips are gourmet quality potato chips made from premium Yukon Gold potatoes and sliced thick with the skin on in the wavy-cut style for extra crispness. These fresh-cooked chips are a unique offering with a low food cost, customizable to your menu.
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Continuing education on wedding cakes offered at the French Pastry School

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How a wedding cake tastes is just as important as how it looks. Chef Donald Wressell, in his fourth year at The French Pastry School of Chicago, will teach Wedding Cake Construction and Tasting from Oct. 6 to 8, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. The course will cover how to create a cake that tastes extraordinary and is well-constructed, even when you are under pressure to produce a high volume. In this three-day hands-on class, participants will focus on the baking, filling and building of wedding cakes. Chef Wressell will guide participants through flavor profiles and textures, along with a range of cakes and different filling combinations. Once you have all the components, it is time to build your cake ensuring the structure is safe and stable. Chef Wressell will share invaluable tips and tricks to producing high-volume quality cakes in the shortest time possible.

This course is accredited by the American Culinary Federation for 24 Continuing Education Hours (CEHs). For more information, visit www.frenchpastryschool.com.

(photo courtesy of The French Pastry School)

And for more great opportunities to learn about wedding cakes--as well as many other topics, from pastry to savory preparations to management techniques--visit www.fenisummit.com to learn more about the 2010 Foodservice Educators Network International (FENI) Educators Summit, Feb. 12 to 15, 2010, in Chicago!
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Have you heard? Restaurant openings

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By Maggie Shea, Chef Magazine

The days may be getting shorter, but longer nights are welcomed by a chef in Philly opening a late-night Italian eatery and wine bar, and a long-time restaurateur who will offer build-your-own burgers to the night owls of Sin City. And as comfort food continues its reign, two Food Network hosts in Chicago are serving up their own upscale versions of dishes Mom used to make, while a gastropub in D.C. turns up the volume on traditional British pub fare. Meanwhile, an 18-year-old New York staple gets a makeover and a seasonal fine-dining spot opens in the heart of Oregon wine country.

Grind Burger Bar & Lounge
Long-time Las Vegas restaurateur Mark DiMartino is at it again as he and business partner and real estate developer Barry Fieldman launched a build-your-own-burger concept on Sept. 25. Grind Burger Bar & Lounge will specialize in customizable burgers using fresh ground chuck, hand-pressed turkey and meatless burgers made with ground chickpeas and Mediterranean spices. But burgers just aren't the same without toppings. Guests can choose from a variety of premium cheeses, 20 toppings that include a fried egg, Sicilian olive salad and grilled asparagus; as well as 20 specialty sauces ranging from wasabi mayonnaise and San Marzano tomato salsa to cayenne pepper ranch dressing. The indecisive diner can simply opt for the chef's suggestion: "The turkey burger with provolone cheese, ajvar [puréed roasted eggplant and peppers], mayonnaise, sautéed spinach and garlic on a wheat bun," DiMartino said in a press statement. The menu also will include appetizers, chopped salads, specialty sandwiches and three preparations of potatoes.

Grind Burger Bar & Lounge is located at 360 E. Tropicana Ave. in Las Vegas, Nev. Open daily for lunch, dinner and late night. Visit www.grindburgers.com, or call (720) 262-9181.

Hearty
Opening for dinner on Nov. 4, Hearty is the latest addition to the growing empire of caterers, Food Network hosts and "accidental experts" on all things entertainment, The Hearty Boys. Chefs/owners Dan Smith (pictured, right) and Steve McDonagh (pictured, left) are returning to full-fledged restaurant operations with the launch of Hearty, an upscale American comfort food restaurant with vintage-twist cocktails and an all-American wine list. Smith and McDonagh offered a teaser of their upcoming menu at a preview dinner on Sept. 9, serving playful dishes like Cheddar and Havarti mac 'n' cheese squares rolled in cracker crumbs and deep-fried, pork belly and beans, foil-wrapped "campfire" fish with market vegetables and herb butter and a rice, butterscotch and cornmeal Indian pudding flight for dessert.

Hearty, located at 3819 N. Broadway, Chicago, is currently open for brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. It will be open daily for dinner. Visit www.heartyboys.com, or call (773) 244-9866.

Againn
Againn, which loosely translates to "with us" in Gaelic, is a European-inspired gastropub opening this October in Washington, D.C. Offering a fresh take on British pub cuisine, the family-style menu incorporates such dishes as shepherd's pie, ale-battered fish and chips with gribiche sauce, Cumberland bangers and mash, grilled Amish country aged cheddar sandwich with scallions and chips and smoked fish cakes with lemon-horseradish cream. The concept plays off of co-owner Mark Weiss's childhood split between New Zealand and London. As such, Againn also promises an extensive beer and single-malt Scotch selection to complement the high-end pub fare as well as a selection of international wines and artisanal cocktails. Weiss and his partner Bahar Makinaci, of boutique hospitality company Whisk Group, announced the launch Againn with the promise of more restaurant ventures to come.

Final rendering of Againn dining room

Againn is located at 1099 New York Ave. in Washington, D.C. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Visit www.againndc.com, or call (202) 297-0601.

Zavino
For a late-night take on seasonal Italian food, chef/partner Steve Gonzalez is set to open Zavino in October on the trendy 13th St. Corridor in Philadelphia's Midtown Village. The Italian kitchen and wine bar will be open until 2 a.m. daily serving wood-fired pizzas, charcuterie, seasonal salads and pasta until late as well as cocktails, wine and beer. Zavino's menu will change seasonally, as is customary in Italy. Thus, be on the lookout for items such as pizza with sliced fresh artichokes, Swiss chard and Pecorino Romano cheese, roasted red and golden beets with pistachios and goat cheese, roasted lamb with fried eggplant and mint and homemade beef ravioli with brown butter and sage. Gonzalez spent years working in Italy, Spain and New York, in addition to working under Philadelphia's acclaimed chef Marc Vetri.

Zavino is located at 112 S. 13th St., Philadelphia, Pa. Open daily 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. No reservations. Visit www.zavino.com, or call (215) 732-2400.

Oceana
An 18-year staple in the New York City dining scene, American seafood restaurant Oceana reopened its doors on Sept. 15 at its new home just west of Rockefeller Center. The flagship restaurant of Livanos Restaurant Group, the new Oceana offers a raw bar, a full-service bar and a Chef's Table in the kitchen. With the arrival of warmer weather next year, Oceana will also provide outdoor seating for up to 60 guests. Executive chef Ben Pollinger will provide a daily selection of fresh, whole fish, prime meats and naturally raised fowl on the lunch and dinner menus. Pastry chef Jansen Chan will offer playful favorites from Oceana's menu like the doughnut platter as well as new creations. Signature cocktails incorporating fresh juice, house-made syrups and seasonings are complemented by a wine list made up of 500 selections featuring 37 grape varietals.

Oceana is located at 1221 Avenue of the Americas at 49th St. in the McGraw Hill Building. Open daily for lunch and dinner and brunch on weekends. Visit www.livanosrestaurantgroup.com, or call (212) 759-5941.

Jory Restaurant
Named for a soil type that produces Oregon's famous Pinot Noirs, Jory Restaurant opened Sept. 26 at The Allison Inn & Spa in Newberg, Ore. The fine-dining restaurant offers cuisine in the style of the Pacific Northwest, with executive chef Nathan Lockwood at the helm offering dinner menu items like grilled Berkshire pork chop and Harmony peach with farro and charred scallions and crispy potato-crusted halibut over sautéed broccoli rabe, potato-olive oil emulsion and olives. Jory's 1 1/2-acre chef's garden will provide a bounty of seasonal vegetables, fruit and herbs that appear on the menu as in the Jory Garden zucchini soup with poached mussels, bacon and chives. Food and wine director Ercolino Crugnale and restaurant manager Tom Bean are also heading up the restaurant. And given The Allison's locale deep in the Willamette Valley wine region, the wine list is a hefty one, offering 700 bottles and 50 wines by the glass.

A front view of The Allison Inn & Spa

Jory Restaurant is located at the Allison Inn & Spa on 2525 Allison Lane, Newberg, Ore. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, reservations are available. Visit www.theallison.com/restaurant.php, or call (503) 554-2525.
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Bon Appétit Management Co. chefs take on Eat Local Challenge

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On Sept. 29, Bon Appétit Management Co. held its fifth annual Eat Local Challenge. In an effort to promote local food economies, chefs at the more than 400 Bon Appétit café locations nationwide prepared meals made only from ingredients grown and produced from within 150 miles or less of each café. This includes dairy products, cooking oils, meat and vegetables--everything but salt.

The Eat Local Challenge educates diners about the variety of foods available to them locally, seeking to build support for local food economies and strong regional food systems in the United States. For more information, click here.

Bon Appétit is an onsite restaurant company that provides café and catering services to corporations, colleges, universities and specialty venues in 29 states.
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IPC introduces new potato varieties, blog

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It's been a busy fall so far for the Idaho Potato Commission, as it unveils three new varieties of Idaho-grown potato in addition to the well-known russet: gold, red and fingerling potatoes.

Purple Peruvian fingerlings are suitable for potato salads, roasting or sautéing.

"The growing conditions in Idaho--both the rich, volcanic soil and the climate--are the best in the world for yielding great tasting potatoes with a high solids content," said Don Odiorne, vice president of foodservice, in a statement. "Similar to the russet, the new Idaho-grown varieties perform well in foodservice because of their low water content."

The waxy Cal Red variety retains its skin color well and is good for potato salad.

The breakdown of the four varieties is as follows:
  • russets: Burbank, Norkotah, Ranger and Western;
  • golds: Milva, Yellow Finn and Yukon Gold;
  • reds: Cal Red, Red La Soda, Norland; and
  • fingerlings: Russian Banana, Ruby Crescent, French Fingerling, Purple Peruvian.
The IPC also recently launched a new blog, Ask Dr. Potato where Odiorne answers chefs' questions about menuing potatoes, healthy recipes, cost-effective use of potatoes and potato leftovers. Visit foodserviceblog.idahopotato.com for more information or to ask a question.
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IACP Cookbook Awards calls for entries

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The International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) is calling on cookbook authors, editors, publishers, photographers and stylists to submit their cookbooks for its 25th annual Cookbook Awards. All books must be submitted in English by Oct. 28, and for the first time, books may be entered in more than one category. Finalists will be announced by Feb. 26, 2010, and the winners will be honored at the ICAP Annual Conference, April 21 to 24 in Portland, Ore.

The judges will grant awards in 16 categories, award a Cookbook of the Year and grant the optional Gane Grigson Award and the Design Award, if any books so merit. New categories added to the awards this year are: Children, Youth and Family; Culinary History and Professional Kitchens. For more information on submission guidelines or to download an entry form, visit www.iacp.com.
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Webby Awards launch call for entries for best restaurant Web site

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The Webby Awards has kicked off its 14th annual call for entries at www.webbyawards.com. Restaurant industry Web sites can also enter in interactive advertising, mobile and video categories. The early deadline to enter work is Oct. 30. Nominees will be announced in April 2010, and winners will be honored at a gala ceremony on June 14, 2010, where they'll be asked to deliver one of the now-famous five-word speeches.

In 2009, Parish Food and Goods won The Webby Award for Best Restaurant Site, which was chosen by the judging academy, and Smokey Bones Bar & Fire Grill won The Webby People's Voice Award, which was chosen by the public. Parish Food and Goods' five-word speech was "Here to design you taste." Smokey Bones Bar & Fire Grill's five-word speech was "Thanks for pulling our pork."

"The Webby Awards gives winners an exciting a chance to have their work celebrated on a global stage," David-Michel Davies, executive director of The Webby Awards, said in a press release. "The Internet is becoming an even more integral part of the restaurant industry, and we are thrilled to honor the innovators that are leading the way."

Hailed as the "Internet's highest honor" by the New York Times, The 13th Annual Webby Awards received nearly 10,000 entries from over 60 countries. Following this year's ceremony, the Webby channel was number-one on YouTube with more than 500,000 video views in its first day alone.

The Webby Awards is presented by the International Academy of Digital Arts and Sciences, a 550-person judging academy whose members include Vinton Cerf, R/GA's Chief Bob Greenberg, Virgin chairman Richard Branson, Martha Stewart, "Simpson's" creator Matt Groening, Arianna Huffington, and Harvey Weinstein.
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