king crab
snow crab king crabsnow crab king crabsnow crab
king crabsnow crabThe article is the online exclusive Beverage & Spirits column for the November/December issue of Chef Magazine.
Talking bourbon with whiskey maven Scott Gold, mixologist at Brooklyn's Char No. 4Whether it's rounding out an Old Fashioned, presented simply in a tumbler with a few ice cubes, or adding a kick to a pork rib glaze, bourbon is a distinctly American spirit finding its way onto more bar and restaurant menus nationwide. Scott Gold, author of The Shameless Carnivore, mixologist at restaurant and whiskey bar Char No. 4 in Brooklyn, N.Y., and a columnist for the food section of The Faster Times, can make a bourbon lover out of just about any stubborn scotch or whiskey drinker. It all starts with distinguishing what makes bourbon bourbon, he says.
"If we talk specifically about bourbon, what's going to make it different is the one crop that we tend to grow a lot of in the United States, and that's corn. Bourbon is going to have that natural corn sweetness to it that you’re not going to get from a scotch or even a rye whiskey." The other thing that makes bourbon special, Gold says, is that unlike vodka or scotch, it's heavily regulated by the U.S. federal government, meaning it can only be made from grain, water and yeast, and it has to contain between 51 and 79 percent corn. Additionally, bourbon has to be aged in brand-new charred oak barrels; to be considered straight bourbon, it must be aged a minimum of two years.
As long as they're complying with the veritable laundry list of government requirements, distillers can play with the percentages of wheat, rye or barley on the bourbon's mash bill, which means the makeup of grains in the mash. They seldom share this information, though, so this is where Gold likes to fill in the blanks by comparing bourbon's different flavor profiles to bread. "[The mash bill] is not freely given out by distillers because it's like their trade secrets," he says. "But if the bourbon has more of a spicy note to it, then you can tell it's probably made with a little bit more rye. And if it has kind of a drier note to it--that classic barley flavor--then you can tell it's made with a bit more barley. If you compare wheat to rye, it's a lot rounder, smoother, maybe a little sweeter. Maker's Mark, for example, is a six-year-old wheated bourbon that's very smooth and sweet and easy to drink."
Gold says that age is where the complexity and aroma in bourbon begin to really develop. "Once you get up around nine or 10 years with a wheated bourbon, for example, the wheat kind of matures and takes over, and the corn peters out a little bit. And you get this really amazing, incomparable flavor with an older wheated bourbon ... like the Pappy Van Winkle line [from Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery in Frankfort, Ky.], which are 12-, 15-, 20- and 23-year-old bourbons."
When it comes to classic bourbon cocktails like the Manhattan or the New Orleans Sazerac (recipe follows), recipes typically call for rye bourbon, though Gold says it's ultimately up to the bartender. "Like everything food-related, it's highly subjective. I'm a huge fan of Rittenhouse Rye or Rittenhouse Bonded 100 proof. It's wonderful to drink on its own but makes a fabulous Manhattan. I wouldn't use 107-proof, really nice aged whiskey in certain cocktails because then you're not going to really experience the spirit as much as you would just drinking it. You can if you like; people make cocktails with 151-proof rum after all."
The secret's in the ice
While many scotch drinkers will claim ice interferes with whiskey's flavor, one of the lesser-known secrets to a great bourbon cocktail is, in fact, the ice. Gold says all foodservice operations and bars should use a water filtration system if they plan to offer an extensive liquor list.
"Who wants to drink a $20 glass of whiskey with dirty, chlorinated ice? It just ruins everything," he says. "One of the reasons that people started making bourbon in Kentucky is because they have these huge limestone deposits, and limestone acts as a natural filter for water, so it is really hard. That's the same hard, clean water that's going into making the whiskey.
"And if it's 100 proof or more, or even a regular 90-proof bourbon, I'll add one or two ice cubes. Not as much to cool the temperature down, but to help the spirit open up and to bring out the aromatics."
Ice also plays a significant part in helping the bourbon novice learn more about the spirit. "I tell people when they're first learning about whiskey to take a sip of it before they put the ice in--to get a sense of it--and then once they put an ice cube in, swirl it around and give it about 60 seconds; it's going to taste almost like a different whiskey." Gold frequently comes across newcomers to whiskey at Char No. 4, where the menu of more than 150 American whiskeys can be quite intimidating. As patrons gaze incredulously at the menu, unsure of what to order, the first words out of their mouths are typically apologies. "The customers always apologize for not knowing enough. And there's nothing to apologize about, you know? You're here; you're looking to learn. That's a wonderful thing."
Gold coaches them by first finding out which, if any, whiskeys they already like. "The first question I always ask is, 'Is there any whiskey you've had that you've enjoyed?'" If someone tells me they like Knob Creek Bourbon that immediately signals the fact that they like something that's nine years old with a higher proof. Or if they say, 'I really love Basel Hayden,' then I think, that's 80 proof, lighter, single barrel, softer on the palate, which takes me in that direction."
For the scotch drinkers who are open to American whiskey, Gold steers them right toward rye, which he says makes a perfect bridge between scotch and bourbon since it's not as sweet as a wheated bourbons, for example.
What to eat?
So what does one pair with this versatile, aromatic spirit? Good old-fashioned Southern cuisine, of course, Gold replies. From smoked, barbecue or slow-cooked beef and pork to rich potato dishes, American comfort food pairs well with America's spirit, mainly because it's regional, Gold says. "Regionally, these things pair well together because the same people making barbecue or cooking in cast iron or deep frying were drinking whiskey while they made it!"
He adds that bourbon unsurprisingly pops up as an ingredient in barbecue sauces or glazes for ribs. In addition, certain American whiskeys, especially the sharper ones, make wonderful digestifs. "So if you have a really hot bourbon--maybe a cask-strength or barrel-proof--with an ice cube to let it open up and take some of the sting out, it is great for cutting through the richness of that meal, if you're feeling loaded down," Gold says.
Gold shared his recipe for the Sazerac, a classic New Orleans cocktail made up of bourbon, simple syrup and two types of bitters. According to Gold, the perfect Sazerac has no garnish, no ice and should come out "this really lovely kind of pinkish-red color. I learned it in bartending school in New Orleans back when I was in college, and this is the Sazerac that I still make when I'm behind the bar today," he says. "It's a beautiful, beautiful thing."
Yield: 1 cocktail
1 oz. absinthe or herbsaint liqueur (use Pernod if can't get either)
1 large lemon peel, rough cut
2 oz. rye whiskey (recommended: Old Overholt Canadian Rye Whiskey)
1/2 to 3/4 oz. simple syrup, 1-to-1 sugar to water
2 dashes Angostura bitters
2 dashes Peychaud's bitters
Method (1) Fill a rocks glass or Old Fashioned glass with ice and water to chill. Dump out the ice, and pour in a little absinthe. Turn the glass a few times to line the inside with the absinthe; dump it again. (2) Wipe the rim of the glass with the lemon peel. (3) Add measured whiskey, simple syrup and bitters to a stainless steel shaker, and stir; don't shake. (4) Strain the cocktail straight up into the chilled glass, and enjoy immediately.
Chef Alex Stratta of Alex at Wynn Las Vegas (third from left) accepts a $10,000 donation in his name to support the Puck-Lazaroff Charitable Foundation benefiting the LA Chapters of City Meals On Wheels. The IPC’s own Frank Muir (far left) and Don Odiorne (far right) served as judges in the third annual Chef Challenge. Barbara Lazaroff (second from left) and Wolfgang Puck (fifth from left) joined the IPC to present Stratta the donation check.The legendary chef and philanthropist Wolfgang Puck and four nationally acclaimed "chef friends" partnered with the Idaho Potato Commission (IPC) for the third annual IPC Chef Challenge at the American Wine & Food Festival (AWFF), held at Universal Studios in Los Angeles on Oct. 3. The celebrated chefs battled it out in a friendly competition to win the grand prize of a $10,000 charitable donation made in their name to the Los Angeles Chapters of Meals on Wheels.
Chef Alex (Alessandro) Stratta of Alex at Wynn Las Vegas was the evening's big winner as he dazzled the judges with Idaho Potato and Leek Risotto with Porcini and Parmigiano--a whimsical take on traditional risotto with perfectly cubed potatoes teamed with leeks, the gentle, nutty flavor of porcini mushrooms and a sprinkling of freshly grated Parmigiano.
This year's impressive roster of IPC Chef Challenge participants included: Mark Gaier and Clark Frasier of Arrows Restaurant, Ogunquit, Maine; Francois Payard of Payard New York, New York City; and Cal Stamenov of Marinus Restaurant at Bernardus Lodge, Carmel, Calif. Dishes were judged on the best use of the product (Idaho potatoes), originality of recipe, flavor and presentation.
For more information, visit www.idahopotato.com.
The National Restaurant Association (NRA)'s Depreciation Fairness Coalition sent a letter to each member of Congress urging an extension of the 15-year depreciation schedule for restaurant improvements and expansion, leasehold improvements and retail improvements. The depreciation schedule is set to expire at the end of 2009. According to the letter, an extension is essential to offer businesses the certainty they need to take on capital expenditures, which help fuel economic activity and create jobs."Without Congressional action, the depreciation schedule will revert back to 39 years, which would greatly discourage capital expenditures for restaurants," said Beth Johnson, executive vice president of public affairs for the NRA, in a statement. "The failure to act now would be extremely shortsighted and inhibit job creation at a key moment. As the economy begins the process of recovery, businesses need the resources necessary to make investments, hire and retain workers, and, in certain cases, keep their doors open."
The Depreciation Fairness Coalition is a group of restaurants, trade associations and other organizations that support permanent extension of the 15-year depreciation schedule for restaurant improvements and expansion.
Women Chefs & Restaurateurs (WCR) announced the finalists for its 10th annual Women Who Inspire Awards, to be presented Nov. 1, during WCR's annual conference at The Ritz-Carlton, Washington, D.C.The Women Who Inspire Awards recognize women who have demonstrated excellence and innovation in the dining room, kitchen, baking and pastry arts, beverage profession, farming and food production, community affairs, as well as for a lifetime of culinary excellence. Nora Pouillon, chef/owner of Restaurant Nora--America's first certified organic restaurant--in Washington, D.C., will receive the Genesis Award. WCR created the Genesis Award, which has only been given out once before, to recognize a woman who has achieved a true "first" in the culinary profession.
Here are the Women Who Inspire Awards and their finalists:
WCR Barbara Tropp President's Award, sponsored by American Roland Food Corp., recognizes a woman who has made exceptional and lasting contributions to the foodservice industry.
- Margrit Biever, vice president of cultural affairs, Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa Valley, Calif.
- Jesse Ziff Cool, chef/owner, CoolEatz Restaurants and Catering, Menlo Park, Calif.
- Judy Wicks, president, White Dog Enterprises Inc., Philadelphia
- Gina Puzzanghera, director, The Nourishing Kitchen of New York City
- Linda Vogler, culinary arts director, D.C. Central Kitchen
- Heather Chittum, pastry chef, Hook, Washington, D.C.
- Kate Jansen, pastry chef/owner, Willow, Arlington, Va.
- Ina Pinkney, chef/owner, Ina’s Kitchen, Chicago
- Ellen Gray, general manager/owner, Equinox, Washington, D.C.
- Patricia Koyich, co-owner, Il Sogno, Calgary, Canada
- Shelley Lindgren, wine director/co-owner, A16 and SPQR restaurants, San Francisco
- Dee Ann Quinones, sommelier, Susan Feniger's STREET, Los Angeles
- Ann Tuennerman, founder, Tales of the Cocktail, New Orleans
- Moie Crawford, farmer/co-owner, New Morning Farm, Hustontown, Pa.
- Susan Soorenko, founder/owner, Moorenko's Ice Cream, Silver Spring, Md.
- Cindy West, cheesemaker/owner, Hillsborough Cheese Co., Hillsborough, N.C.
- Gabrielle Hamilton, chef/owner, Prune, New York City
- Ris Lacoste, chef/owner, Ris, Washington, D.C.
- Cindy Wolf, executive chef/owner, Charleston Restaurant, Baltimore
New Products. New Trends. New Momentum.
That's what you need to Move Ahead. And the Winter Fancy Food Show (January 17 to 19, San Francisco) is the only place you’ll find everything you need to differentiate your business...
- The Newest Products: 80,000 specialty foods & beverages–everything from cheese to chocolate, spices to sorbets, pastas to pastries.
- A True World Market: 1,300 exhibitors from 35+ countries including pavilions from France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Australia, Chile, Peru, Mexico, Greece, China.
- The Hottest Trends: natural and organic foods, lifestyle products, gluten-free and more.
- Our Industry's Finest: discover this year’s Gold Winners in the sofi™ Awards Showcase.
- Meet the right people: Face-to-face meetings in Business Builders 1-to-1.
- The Best Education: 20 seminars, tastings and tours.
- Network with your peers: 17,000 from around the world.
Register by Friday, Dec. 4 for just $35.
Sustainable Foodservice Consulting (SFC), publisher of www.sustainablefoodservice.com, is pleased to announce the launch of its new blog, The Sustainable Shift Drink. The blog covers a variety of topics concerning sustainability in the foodservice industry such as local and organic food, energy efficiency, green foodservice products, innovative restaurants, industry trends and national news. The blog also offers commentary on current issues, advice on foodservice operations, contributions from guest writers and allows readers to post their comments. To see the blog, visit www.sustainablefoodservice.com/blog.SFC provides information, resources and operational assistance for foodservice operators interested in sustainability.