[The Cocktail Chronicles]
A history of cocktail favorites
By Sam Ujvary
Love Your Enemy
“Alcohol may be man's worst
enemy, but the Bible says love your enemy.”
-Frank Sinatra
The
martini. It's a status symbol. Edible
art. Great men drink it and great debates have been made about it.
From
its origin and the ratio of ingredients, to the proper way to make it
and what garnish it's paired with, there's
a martini recipe out there to fit us each individually like a
well-tailored suit.
Somewhere
near San Francisco in the nineteenth century, Jerry Thomas of
the Occidental Hotel had a
bartender manual which contained a martini recipe. It's believed
travelers heading to the nearby city of Martinez were mainly those
consuming the drink. Some sort of 'when in Rome' mentality, I
suppose. Meanwhile, the city from which
the martini gets its name, disputes its origin, claiming the drink
was known as the “Martinez special.” It's one of the world's
mysteries for which we may never have an
answer.
One
of the best-known cocktails in the world, a martini is typically made
of gin and vermouth. While the ratio has continued to vary, it's
really a personal preference. 4 parts gin to 1 part vermouth was
popular in the '30s. As the twentieth century rolled on, ratios rose
to 8:1, 20:1, 50:1 and even some
still prefer to forgo vermouth altogether. Oddly enough, the less dry
vermouth in the recipe, the drier the martini is considered.
How to build a proper martini. There isn't enough paper in the world
to make a book that can fully encompass what goes into this. How much
alcohol? Vermouth! Shaken. No, stirred....but for only 30 seconds.
Using whatever ratio you prefer, pour the ingredients over ice. That,
we can agree on. Gin drinkers generally prefer a stirred martini in
order to taste the botanicals. For a while, vodka martini drinkers
didn't really specify anything other than which spirit they prefer.
Then, James Bond threw a wrench in things. “Ordering a martini
shaken. Brilliant! Why didn't I
think of that? I'm so going to be James Bond next time I go to Happy
Hour.” Seemingly, the only difference in a shaken martini versus
one that is stirred, is the clarity of the drink. If you're making it
correctly, the dilution in a shaken martini is minuscule. For
what it's worth, I only
notice a slightly sharper taste in a stirred martini, while one
that's shaken seems to be more well-rounded.
The
comically-brilliant Johnny Carson once said, “Happiness is…finding
two olives in your martini when you’re hungry.” With my personal
preference being a dirty vodka martini with blue cheese-stuffed
olives, I concur with Mr. Carson. What
if you worked through lunch and it'll be another 20 minutes before
your table is ready? Well, I can tell you (admittedly,
from experience) that biting
into an onion or a lemon peel will not tide
you over until you order appetizers.
If you're not so hungry, a
lemon zest around the rim of your martini will give it a little
something extra in one way, while
a cocktail onion—which is typically sweet—gives it something
extra in quite a different way. The three traditional garnishes for a
martini each provide a hint of something, whether it be salty, zesty,
or sweet.
Any
way you take your martini, with gin or vodka, shaken or stirred, and
with one onion or three olives—take it with elegance, grace and
class, just like the men and women who gave it its classic
reputation.