By Megan O'Neill
Still but only a few months into their opening, Chef Jimmy
Papadopoulos and team are a refuge of comforting food at Bohemian House in the
heart of Chicago’s River North. They’re cooking Czech food here and merging the
carefree essence of Bohemian society with the cultural authenticity of both
Midwestern American and central European dining. The menu boasts flavors light
and rich, from Slow Roasted Beets drizzled with molasses to a bone marrow and
steak tartare. The fare is representative of the cuisine you’d find in Central
Europe and spans a mix of small and large plates with communal seating
enriching the shared plate experience. And there’s the interior. With its
typical this-is-a-Chicago-loft exposed-brick walls, the rest of the dƩcor is an
intricate weaving of reclaimed wood, Czech patterns and a living room-like
lounge area with the brightest turquoise tufted sofa I’ve seen in a restaurant.
It’s charming, warm and more relaxing than what's usually spotted in the River
North area.
With his tattoo-sleeved arms and a handlebar mustache that
sits atop a spirited smile, Chef Papadopoulos, a relatively unknown kitchen
staple in the Windy City, gave us the rundown of his menu. With the culture of
Bohemia in mind, he looks to embrace the meat and potato history of Chicago
that others might view as a stigma of our town. The concept merges the two,
and he tries to echo them both with a fresh eye. Influences span Germany,
Austria and the Czech Republic—like the potato pancakes with cured salmon, apple
preserves, kohlrabi and dill.
Okay, there’s also a Knackwurst in a Blanket. Knackwurst. In a blanket.Topped
with sweet and sour cabbage, turnips and mustard, it was the comforting cuisine
you would have expected. Also on the menu were sexier takes on classics—think SpƤtzle. By far the favorite of the night, the lighter, puffier version of the German dumpling was tossed with trumpet
mushrooms, gray shallots, rainbow chard, and nuggets of smoked beef tongue that
were anything but dense and tough, and rather melt-in-your-mouth tender and full of
flavor. Tableside, our waiter poured a rich and warm aged Gouda sauce over the
top. Other highlights included an heirloom tomato dish, the coffee and doughnuts, and an extensive selection of
traditional European and American spirits and brews.
This spot and concept is standing out from others on the block, and from what we can see, pretty successfully. Check out their full menu here.
Post a Comment